Will we all be wearing latex and gimp masks to the office a year from now? In 2021, Kim Kardashian wore a full Balenciaga look, gimp suit included, to the Met Gala. Each model followed the other with laser precision, and without the slightest hint toward their identity-with the exception of faux neon hair in lemon, tangerine, and grass green setting them apart. Then there were fluid trench coats, which blossomed as they moved. Pussybow blouses peeked out of the latex get-ups. Oversized polka dot dresses swanned over the rigid full-body gimp suits. But it also spoke volumes about money, power, and Americanness. A play on identity-and the styles associated with mundane corporate culture-was very clearly at work. Here was a collection shrouded in almost all-black silhouettes of oversized blazers, lengthy leathers, extended sleeves, and baggy jeans. And while the backdrop of the New York Stock Exchange itself may have been less emotionally moving than an epic snow storm inside a stadium, there was power in what the clothing itself represented. It was just a few months ago that the label’s creative director, Demna Gvasalia, presented a snow globe-like runway show in Paris as a tribute to Ukraine, so expectations were high for the brand’s first New York show since 2003. Stock ticker screens served as a backdrop for the presentation, flickering behind every single model who walked the makeshift runway between desks in the pit-all wearing gimp masks accessorized with reading glasses, hoop earrings, neon pigtails, while “New York, New York” played in the background. Balenciaga debuted its resort 2023 show to the tune of the opening bells at the New York Stock Exchange.
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